Tech Tips

Find Help Here with some Problems.

All information here is done entirely at the owners risk.

 

Making a  TRE unit for GSXR1000 / 750 / 600 up to k4

When having a power commander set up one of these devices should be fitted to remove the compensations mapped into the ECU from the varying gears. Timing and fuelling are changed within the ecu during varying gears, A power commander  doesn’t  know this and will only be correct to the gear it was set up in!

TRE

This device locks the ECU into thinking it is in 5th Gear which on the Dyno proves to give the best power. TRE (timing retard eliminator)  device is fitted on the gear position output (connected to the GP wire) this plug is located by raising the fuel tank and the 3 wires pink, blue and black white wires will be found just above the engine sprocket area.

You will need a soldering iron, small length of heat shrink, a short length of 0.75mm wire (or similar)  a pair of wire strips and the important bit a ¼ watt 5.5 to 7.0 k resistor.

Find The plug above the sprocket it will be a 3 pin white plug with black white, blue and a pink wire, on the side of the plug that heads to the loom snip the black white and the pink wires. On the resistor solder a length of wire to each end leaving 50mm of wire with its ends striped. Cover the bare area with heat shrink ( or tape ) so no contact area is visible and just the two ends of the wires showing then simply solder one end of the wire from the resistor to the pink wire and the other end to the black white. Cover the connections with heat shrink and you are done.

Make sure the plug is connected back and the two wires left open from the gearbox side of the loom  put heat shrink over them. If the blue wire is no longer connected your bike will loose its neutral signal and it wont start with the stand down.

Please note your bike will idle a little different with this done as the ignition is more advance and the secondary throttle butterflies will be working slightly different.

In first second and third on the 1000s this will give you +10bhp to about 10k rpm as that’s what is lost originally and top speed is now capable of running past 186mph (top limit) although the speedo will never indicate higher.

Cost of job 50 pence time taken  10 mins usual plug in TRE devices can cost up to £50 for basic one.

On newer GSXRs with Gear position indicator a smart tre will be needed to not loose gear output display. A lot of so called “smart TREs” don’t work to I have seen these on K6s and the gear indicates 5th all the time and some of these units cost over £100

I will put up a circuit diagram for a do it yourself smart TRE in the near future.

GSXR Loom info

Be very careful when removing any parts From more modern GSXRs K5 onwards, Suzuki have put a small device in to cause some problems. If the clutch, side stand or neutral circuit is tampered with in any way ( i.e by passing clutch switch or removing the side stand switch) the bike will loose about 10% of its power and some peak RPM. I have seen many bikes on the dyno now showing such results, these bikes were in the form of track day bikes and race bikes and there owners weren’t really non the wiser that they had lost so much power ( says a lot for spending 100s of pounds to get a couple of bhp increase?). If you need to remove the side stand easiest way is to dismantle the switch on the side stand and you will find a diode inside, without getting to technical this diode will only pass one direction. Remove this and solder it back across the wires. JUST SHORTING OUT THE SWITCH WIRES WILL NOT WORK!

GSXR 1000 FI light removal after removing exhaust valve.

When fitting aftermarket system or removing the exhaust valve do the following.

For GSXR1000 K1 to K4 only cut the black with brown stripe wire on the grey connector at the ECU this is pin 33 if you read the plug correctly.

For GSXR1000 K5 K6 cut the black wire with brown stripe going to pin 8 on the grey connector.

When cutting any wires make sure the ignition is turned off  and always leave some spare either way incase you do the wrong one and they need repairing, DO NOT cut flush to the connector!

Always cover any bare wires.

Key removal. GSXR

For track day and race use most people want a keyless bike on pre K5 bikes it is possible to do this without changing the ECU. If you have got as far making your loom so everything works off the kill switch at the handle bars if you haven’t done things correctly your bike will not start when turning over ( the fuel pump wont cut in and a Fault light is shown). By just simply shorting out all the wires at the key to there relevant positions as per the manual this will be the case. Inside the ignition barrel they have fitted a resistor which returns back down the orange and yellow wire. This basically delivers about 9v back to the ecu when the key is turned on. To simulate this just put a ¼ watt 100ohm resistor in between the orange and yellow and its reference wire ( check drawing for what wire this is as they vary on models). Turn it on and everything else being correct the fuel pump will cut in. This eliminates the need for the kit loom and ecu ( yoshi ecu gives you few rpm more  and doesn’t require the TRE but that’s all you get)

K5 onward bikes are more complicated and the key is coded to the ECU only real options here are De chipped ECUS or kit ones costing the earth, or one of our fully programmable ECUs.

This page will be updated  when I get some more time, If you wish send me your tips  you may have in email and I will post them for all to see hopefully information on this page may save someone a few pounds and a lot of time!

By the way any modifications done are to the owners risk and nothing to do with me!